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middlemef
Posted: 16 Jul,
4:51am
East Timor Information
I think TT is in need of some useful East Timor info, seeing as there aint much info available anywhere else as it's been dropped from the latest Indo LP, and the stuff in the SEA LP is extremely light. So here are my experiences and info from a trip I made there recently, if anyone wants to add stuff or correct anything of mine, or ask questions, feel free.
General:
Since the indonesians were kicked out, things have calmed down in ET. The only safety issues these days, other than the usuals in any country, are concerned with the border areas with West Timor. Indonesian malitia groups hang around these parts, and have in the past and no doubt will again in the future, cause some trouble, so personally id steer well clear.
The UN presence is being reduced, and all are expected to have left by the end of 2005. Obviously there are many huge benefits of having the UN around, but a few problems are caused too. The most obvious one is the economy due to the huge wages that UN workers recieve. As a result, ET can be expensive for a white face, particularly with the attitude of a lot of Timorese of trying to hit the jackpot once, rather than looking at the big picture of being fair and trying to attract more tourists to their area in the future. Everything will all equal itself out after the UN have left eventually, but i think its up to us backpackers to bring the prices down to a fair level sooner rather than later.
Attitude to money aside, the Timorese are generally nice friendly people, and the tosser population is sparse, which, if you've travelled accross Nusa Tenggara to get here, is utter bliss. A show of the palm of the hand is a sign of friendship for the Timorese, so a smile and a wave is generally the way. Some places are less friendly than others, but in my experience never hostile, although i've heard the opposite from a couple women travelling by themselves.
The official currency of ET is US$. Theres a few new ET coins equal to cents, but nothing more. The local language is Tetun, but everybody speaks at least some Indonesian. English is rare.
Getting There & Away:
There are three ways in and out of ET - flights to/from Denpasar (Merpati, $180 one way) and Darwin (Air North, AUS$350 one way), and overland at Atambua. The two flights, due to zero competition, are hugely expensive, apparently the Air North flight is the most expensive per km in the world.
A cheaper flight option from Denpasar would be to fly into Kupang instead (Merpati & Star Air, 450,000Rp/$50), and then go overland to Dili. Probably cheaper this way from Darwin too, but not sure of the cost. The road connecting Kupang to Dili is reasonably flat and straight, and is made even easier by the the option of executive buses. Timor Travel and Leste Oeste run aircon buses daily (150,000/$18, 12hrs), where you get your seat all to yourself, and a bit of free food. From Kupang, you can book a ticket over the phone, in Dili you'll have to go the the company office to buy a ticket. These buses can get busy, particularly at weekends so book as early as possible.
Its possible on local transport in a day too - Kupang to Atambua by bus (7hrs), then taxi or bus to the border (1hr ish), then bus from the border to Dili (3hrs). The last bus leaves for Dili at 5pm when the border closes. Hotel Salunga is just about the cheapest place you'll find in Kupang (65,000Rp).
It would be a good idea to leave Indonesia a day or two before your visa expires, the border officials appear to make a habit of charging for "overstaying" for those who leave on the day of expiry.
ET Visa:
Until 01 Feb 2004 the ET visa was free. It then cost $25, and as from 01 June 2004 the cost is $30. It would be a good idea to carry some extra $$ across the border incase of further increase.
Extensions are possible ($30 per 30 days) but you require a sponsor in ET, so maybe it would be easier to go to the border, get stamped out, walk round the building and get stamped back in. Also, i've heard that from now all visa extensions require an aids test (which you will be paying for). Maybe another reason to head to the border.
I've also heard that from now on, if you stay longer than 6 months on a tourist visa you will be assumed to have been earning and will be charged income tax. I doubt this would be avoidable by leaving and re-entering.
Indonesian Visa Run:
Visas of more than 30 days ARE available at the embassy in Dili. If you apply for more than 30 days, its not guaranteed, but your chances are good so dress up smart and wear a smile. What is also available is that you can apply for any type of visa you want, i.e. extendable visas (social, family visit etc), so should you only recieve 30 days, extensions would be available. It has been known of people asking for and receiving 90 day visas. So dont ask questions, just fill out the form for how ever many days and visa type and hand it back and see what you get.
Your visa will cost you $35 (any type & duration) and will take 5 working days i.e 7 days including the weekend, to process. Apply between 9am - 12pm, and pick up between 3 - 4pm. No onward ticket required.
Atambua is not a "visa on arrival" entry point for Indonesia, Denpasar is a VOA but I have been told that flights from Dili are required to have a visa in advance, but then I heard the opposite so maybe someone can clear this up?
Getting Around:
The best way to see ET is on two wheels. Irregular public transport and very bad roads make it difficult to get to some places for those without a bike. Buses between the main towns are regular though and the roads generally arent too rough, and will cost you about $2.
There are plenty of taxis and bemos in Dili, $1 and 10c for a ride around town are fair prices respectively. The taxi drivers though are useless. Theres about a 20% chance he'll actually know where it is you want to go, but a 100% chance that he'll say he knows, so it helps if you know your way around town.
A good option to get around may be hitching a lift with a UN guy. I heard that its their duty to stop and help if they see a western looking person in need of aid.
Also, should you hit anything on your travels around ET, its best not to stop. You will be expected to pay for what you kill, at extortionate rates ($20 for a chicken!) and you dont even get to keep your road kill for dinner.
Dili:
Dili is a good base to explore ET, and with plenty to do, is an enjoyable destination in itself. Theres beaches with snorkelling on offer, good diving, you can visit the one and only Jesus Christ, you can learn about the indonesian regime and other aspects of ET's history at the Xanana Reading Rooms (you dont have to read - theres videos too!), or just generally absorb the eerie post war atmosphere of Dili.
Dili, in my experience, is as safe as any city. Theres obviously petty crime, but with rich UN guys flashing rolexes and expensive camera equipment, its inevitable. The main issue seems to be car crime, leave anything on show with no one around and it will go, guaranteed.
Budget accommodation is sparse in Dili. The best place to stay is 231 Backpackers (East Timor Backpackers in LP) run by an Aussie expat, Henry. For $8 per bed you get a hot shower, aircon, living room with tv and vcd player, stereo, good kitchen with a big fridge, and a washing machine. Basically its like living in in a student house except you get your washing up done for you! Bikes are available from here too, Henry has two 250cc dirt bikes ($15 per day), one 200cc ex post bike ($15 per day), and a few 110cc ex post bikes ($10 per day). He gives decent discounts if you rent for a few days. To find it (the taxi guy wont know) just ask for Matadoro and keep your eyes peeled for the big painted sign on the wall.
Another place worth checking out is the Timor Sands Motel ($10 per room). Apparently has good rooms with cooking facilities. Good luck finding it.
Due to the presence of the UN, you can eat very well in Dili. Not only are there loads of restaurants, but between the Lita, Leader and Singaporean supermarkets, theres not much you cant get hold of. Its pricy but there are some good deals to be had. Good places to eat include Food Start Cafe ($3.50 all you can eat), Metro Cafe ($4.00 all you can eat), but the best pace in town for me is Villa Verde ($4.00 - ask for the special, to find it turn left out of 231 and walk for 5 mins). Also, Lucky Cake House is an excellent bakery. There are plenty of decent local restaurants around too on the cheap.
Dili has ATM's at the ANZ banks, and plenty of internet, though the cheapest you'll find is $1 per 15 mins.
Diving:
The best diving in ET is off Atauro Island, but its gonna cost you $100 per day - 2 dives, minimum four people. Diving off the mainland is however very good also. Thery're all shore dives, of which i did three around Dili. Bob's Rock is an excellent spot and highly recommended, K41 and Dili Rock are ok but not as good.
Diving can be organised only in Dili or Com. In Dili there are two operators - Dive Timor Lorosae and The Free Flow. The cheapest is DTL - $25 daily kit rental, $10 daily DM and $10 per tank, i.e. $65 for three dives on the same day which is excellent value. TFL charge $40 per dive every dive.
Saturday, May 26th 2012, 7:16pm UTC+2
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